The Temple of Lempuyang Luhur – Amed, Bali

7 temples. Over 2,500 steps for the ascension. 2 legs, 2 feet, 10 toes, and one mindset to get me to the top. 

The Balinese say one must never complain on the way up; if you do, you will never make it to the top. 

As I arrived at the entrance, I paid a small fee (only 10,000 IDR : less than $1) and another 10,000 IDR to rent a sarong. Woman or man, everyone must wear a sarong and have their shoulders and back covered. I understand that it is about respect but guys, Bali is fucking hot. Now I’m wearing a long skirt and needed to put on the flannel I had wrapped around my waist. But no complaining, I was ready to make the journey and sweat out whatever no longer served me on the way up. 

There were many options for the hike. The entrance where I paid marks the first temple but after seeing inside, it was recommended that I ride my scooter up to the second temple, as the hike from the first to second was up a very long and steep road. From there I could’ve gone straight through the second to the sixth and seventh to see the view at the top, skipping the third, fourth, and fifth, which were on a separate, larger loop. But what caught my attention about this hike in the first place was the number seven. My lens of the world through the seven energy centers is my foundation for understanding and the idea of traveling upwards through seven temples, then back down, meant much more than just a challenging hike. 

I made my way to the first just as a ceremony was finishing and the group was taking pictures. As I enter, I am splashed with water as a blessing. The head of the temple framed Mt. Agung perfectly and on the other end, three grand staircases rose from the sturdy foundation. This was the root chakra of temples and I could feel the security. I repeated a simple mantra to myself as I felt its feet below mine.

I am here. 

From there I began the very long walk up the side road and it became very clear how many people were probably just coming for the view at the top. I’ll give humans the benefit of the doubt at this point though; I began the hike very early, around 7:30am to avoid the crowds that usually come post 9am. I walked alone and basked in the silence, noticing the already impressive view from the side of the mountain. 

I eventually turned a corner and saw the second temple. At this point, I am drenched and I’m not even positive I’m at the second temple. This one is much smaller and neatly fits into the crevice of the mountain. As the sacral chakra of temples, it flows with the earth it sits on. I walk up mid ceremony and am so tempted to quietly sit in the crowd that is being blessed with holy water but as I try to

cross the threshold I am stopped and told I cannot enter. This was the policy at every temple; signs were posted everywhere saying “prayer only!!” and as much as I wanted to see further inside, even partake in the ceremony, I understood. 

I left just as the ceremony was letting out which meant I took the walk to the third with a very large crowd of Balinese, and needless to say, I did not blend in. Many, many people stopped me and asked where I was from. One woman I spoke with for a while even went as far as to exclaim “You have no boyfriend?!” as if to say, “Why are you alone?”. Little did I know but these two questions would be directed as me more times than I could tell you. Everyone from top to

bottom wanted to know where I was from and if I was alone. In writing, these seems like two wildly sketchy questions to be asked but men and women alike inquired in a harmless manner, reacting to the answer with more respect than purpose. 

As we arrived at the third, everyone in the crowd entered for another ceremony and again I was left on my own to continue to the fourth, which seemed fitting. The large crowd was lovely to walk with to feel the energy and the flow continuing from the sacral temple but it was nice to let the fire of the solar plexus temple burn up the crowd and allow me to continue to the heart center, free of anything weighing on me. 

I followed deep chimes up the long steps to the fourth temple, just across the foundation of the third. The view was breathtaking. I took a moment to ground into the heart and again repeated the simple mantra from the root temple but with a different lens. 

I am. Here. 

I continued on to the throat temple from here after giving one deep ‘OM’ with the chimes for the heart. The fifth was a very short walk ahead and from just a few meters higher I got a wild view of where the mountains cascaded down and met the beach. This time I let the throat reign and didn’t hold back as I just about shouted  “Oh. My. God!!!” 

The hardest ascent was from the fifth to the sixth and once again this rang true. In the United States, we are in a very physical state. We are ruled by our bodies and focus on the tangible. The lower three chakras are there for us to feel in our bodies. From there, if we are kind enough with ourselves we can

tap into the heart center.

We can even find much strength in our voice, especially as of late, and feel the fifth. But to continue through the sixth and seventh center, it is all surrender and faith. Unwaivering trust in not just ourselves or others, but in Source. In everything but the physical and tangible. 

The stairs were steep and slippery now at such a foggy altitude and went on for maybe a hair less than a mile. At one point I thought I had reached it and felt victorious but a Balinese woman sitting on the steps told me I had to still continue. There are a handful of smaller temples along the route that give a very false sense of progress. 

When I finally reached it, the sixth stood in stark white, reflecting the sun sharply into my eyes. Many Balinese faces seemed surprised to see me heaving my way up the steps. I spent a moment checking into my intuitive sixth center. My breath was heavy but there. My heart was racing but still beating. My legs were sore but attached. My body was exhausted but I am not my body.  I am okay.  I can do this.

I continued. Repeating with every step of my left foot “I” and every step of my right foot “Am”. As I made my way toward the crown temple, the sunlight burst through the canopy so intensely I nearly thought I could’ve reached out to the rays and swung my way to the top.

The steps began turning into broken half steps, then into mud, then into construction like pits that made me think the steps hadn’t even been finished yet and they were still working on the path. 

I. Am. 

With a few more very labored breaths, I stepped onto a platform and found myself staring at the last temple. The crown. 

I was the first one there apart from three women who were setting out their blankets to sell water and some snacks. It was quiet. 

The last temple was not the largest or the most ornate. The reward was the jewel. Just across the way, seemingly at eye level, was Mount Agung: “the gateway to heaven”. Powerful and dignified, that is the grand crown temple. 

I spent a while at the top soaking up everything I could but my timing couldn’t have been better. I was advised to go very early for a few reasons; the first being that most things, hikes especially, need to be done at the crack of dawn before things get too hot. The second, to avoid the crowds. The third, and it was still a hit or miss, many times all the way at the top will be too foggy to see anything so early morning is when things are coolest (still 85+) and the fog hasn’t risen yet. About five minutes after reaching the peak and gawking at Mt. Agung, I looked down to get my journal out and when I looked back up all I could see was grey clouds. The fog appeared, completely covering any view I had of Agung. But I got to see it. And it was stunning.  

And yes! You’re other reward after making it to the top is to turn around and climb back down! (Although admittedly I did take the expedited route down; shorter, but not short.)

The ascent was curious and energized. I stopped at each temple to snap a Polaroid of it and a few extra phone pictures. But the descent was for me. I zipped my phone in my bag and followed my footsteps carefully down the slipper steps, one by one. Everyone I walked by seemed very surprised to see my face coming out of the last temple. I passed many wide eyes and answered lots of inquiries about if I was doing the hike alone and how I was feeling, and quite a lot of people stopping me to tell me to go slow and be careful. 

I surely felt victorious (and relieved) to reach the bottom and enjoyed cooling off with the quick breeze of a windy, downhill scooter ride back to Amed. 

it is a view i will never forget and am likely to dream of again. 

With gratitude and joy, 

sarah